To maintain the temperature at suitable levels, all aquarists need an accurate thermometer. There are basically two types of thermometers for the aquarium: the internal floating or fixed thermometer and the external stick-on thermometer. The internal ones tend to be more accurate, and the external ones tend to read a couple of degrees too low.
I recommend two thermometers to enable you to carefully monitor your aquarium temperature as well as to compare the accuracy of each unit. Don’t cut corners when it comes to maintaining water temperature. This piece of equipment is very important, yet it does not cost a lot.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Aquarium Heater
Based on their temperature preference, fish can be grouped into two general categories: temperate and tropical. Temperate fish include many species that inhabit cooler waters. However, the fish most commonly seen in freshwater aquariums belong to tropical species. The term “tropical” refers to natural habitats where the waters are warm throughout the year. It should come as no surprise, then, that it is necessary to maintain your aquarium within a specific temperature range. This is the job of the aquarium heater.
This essential piece of equipment maintains your tank at a constant temperature, regardless of the room temperature. With the exception of a few fish, such as the common Goldfish, the species you are likely to keep as a beginner will require the aquarium temperature to be maintained at 75 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 26 degrees Celsius). However, this is entirely dependent on the species, and you should consult your local aquarium dealer or one of the many fish encyclopedias for specific temperature requirements. Obviously, you should not mix species that have very different temperature requirements.
There are a few types of aquarium heaters available to the aquarist, but the most common is the submersible glass tubular heater with a built-in thermostat. This heater attaches to the side of the tank and has external controls. Once it is properly set, it automatically responds to changes in water temperature and turns itself on and off. If you choose one of these, I recommend that you double-check the accuracy of the dial with a thermometer.
In general, you should place your heater close to an area of high circulation so that heated water can be rapidly and evenly distributed throughout the tank. This is usually near the filter system or the airstones.
Heater size largely depends on the size of the aquarium. The general rule is 5 watts of power for every gallon of water. Thus, a 20-gallon tank requires a 100-watt heater. Many fishkeepers recommend that two heaters be used in aquariums over 50 gallons; this allows for more even distribution of heat in the aquarium and also maintains correct temperature if one heater fails. The total required wattage should be divided between the two heaters (so a 50-gallon tank would require two 125-watt heaters, for a total of 250 watts).
This essential piece of equipment maintains your tank at a constant temperature, regardless of the room temperature. With the exception of a few fish, such as the common Goldfish, the species you are likely to keep as a beginner will require the aquarium temperature to be maintained at 75 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 26 degrees Celsius). However, this is entirely dependent on the species, and you should consult your local aquarium dealer or one of the many fish encyclopedias for specific temperature requirements. Obviously, you should not mix species that have very different temperature requirements.
There are a few types of aquarium heaters available to the aquarist, but the most common is the submersible glass tubular heater with a built-in thermostat. This heater attaches to the side of the tank and has external controls. Once it is properly set, it automatically responds to changes in water temperature and turns itself on and off. If you choose one of these, I recommend that you double-check the accuracy of the dial with a thermometer.
In general, you should place your heater close to an area of high circulation so that heated water can be rapidly and evenly distributed throughout the tank. This is usually near the filter system or the airstones.
Heater size largely depends on the size of the aquarium. The general rule is 5 watts of power for every gallon of water. Thus, a 20-gallon tank requires a 100-watt heater. Many fishkeepers recommend that two heaters be used in aquariums over 50 gallons; this allows for more even distribution of heat in the aquarium and also maintains correct temperature if one heater fails. The total required wattage should be divided between the two heaters (so a 50-gallon tank would require two 125-watt heaters, for a total of 250 watts).
Aquarium Ph
When we talk about pH, we are really referring to levels of hydrogen ions in solution. Ions are simply atoms with an electrical charge. These hydrogen ions have a positive charge. We measure the number of hydrogen ions on a pH scale.
The pH scale tells us how many hydrogen ions are in your aquarium water and, therefore, how acidic it is. It ranges from 0 to 14. While you would anticipate that a higher number on the scale would mean more hydrogen ions and a more acidic solution, this is not the case. In reality, a lower number on the scale means more hydrogen ions. A pH of 1 is very acidic, pH of 7 is neutral, and a pH of 14 is very alkaline, which is the opposite of acidic. This scale is logarithmic, which means that each number is ten times stronger than the preceding number. For example, a pH of 2 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 3 and one hundred times more acidic than a pH of 4.
The pH of your aquarium water is influenced by a variety of factors, including the amount of carbon dioxide and fish waste in the water. In general, the beginner’s aquarium pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Commercial test kits that are very simple to use are available at most aquarium supply stores. The pH level in your tank should be monitored every week or two to detect any changes. An abrupt drop in pH may be indicative of an increase in carbon dioxide or fish wastes. An increase in aeration or a partial water change may alleviate the problem.
There are ways to chemically alter the pH in an aquarium. However, unless you are attempting to attain specific pH levels that are dictated by the special needs of certain species of fishes, I do not recommend that you use them.
The pH scale tells us how many hydrogen ions are in your aquarium water and, therefore, how acidic it is. It ranges from 0 to 14. While you would anticipate that a higher number on the scale would mean more hydrogen ions and a more acidic solution, this is not the case. In reality, a lower number on the scale means more hydrogen ions. A pH of 1 is very acidic, pH of 7 is neutral, and a pH of 14 is very alkaline, which is the opposite of acidic. This scale is logarithmic, which means that each number is ten times stronger than the preceding number. For example, a pH of 2 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 3 and one hundred times more acidic than a pH of 4.
The pH of your aquarium water is influenced by a variety of factors, including the amount of carbon dioxide and fish waste in the water. In general, the beginner’s aquarium pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Commercial test kits that are very simple to use are available at most aquarium supply stores. The pH level in your tank should be monitored every week or two to detect any changes. An abrupt drop in pH may be indicative of an increase in carbon dioxide or fish wastes. An increase in aeration or a partial water change may alleviate the problem.
There are ways to chemically alter the pH in an aquarium. However, unless you are attempting to attain specific pH levels that are dictated by the special needs of certain species of fishes, I do not recommend that you use them.
Monday, May 2, 2011
The Hood
An essential item for any aquarium is a hood or cover. This important piece of equipment performs a variety of functions. First, it prevents unwanted items from entering the tank and injuring the fish. Second, it prevents overzealous fish from jumping out of the tank. Remember, a fish cannot breathe air, and nothing is worse than finding your pet on the floor next to the aquarium in the morning. The cover also prevents water from splashing the walls and floor, causing damage, and it slows the rate of water evaporation from the tank. Water condenses on the cover and re-enters the tank instead of evaporating; this reduces the necessity of adding more water. Fifth, the hood helps the aquarium retain heat. And finally, the hood keeps water from damaging the aquarium light and prevents a potentially dangerous electrical problem.
The hood is generally fitted to the dimensions of the tank and is adjustable to allow for aquarium accessories. It should be composed of thick (1⁄8-inch) glass or plastic so it can support the weight of other aquarium components if necessary. It should be segmented so the entire assembly need not be removed to feed the fish or work in the tank.
For the beginner, I strongly recommend the type of hood that also contains the aquarium light. These units are self-contained and are designed to keep water from the lighting unit, minimize danger, and cover the entire tank. If possible, the tank, stand, and hood should be purchased as a package from a single manufacturer. This prevents the problem of mismatched aquarium components, and may also be less expensive.
The hood is generally fitted to the dimensions of the tank and is adjustable to allow for aquarium accessories. It should be composed of thick (1⁄8-inch) glass or plastic so it can support the weight of other aquarium components if necessary. It should be segmented so the entire assembly need not be removed to feed the fish or work in the tank.
For the beginner, I strongly recommend the type of hood that also contains the aquarium light. These units are self-contained and are designed to keep water from the lighting unit, minimize danger, and cover the entire tank. If possible, the tank, stand, and hood should be purchased as a package from a single manufacturer. This prevents the problem of mismatched aquarium components, and may also be less expensive.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
The Aquarium Stand
The best support for the heavy weight of the aquarium and all its components is a commercially manufactured aquarium stand. This type of support is built to hold a full aquarium. Homemade stands and other furniture may look sturdy, but can fail under the heavy load. Stand failure can be costly to the aquarist and the homeowner (and the fish), so don’t try to save money on your aquarium stand.
If you don’t buy a commercially built stand, I recommend that you place under the tank a 5⁄8-inch sheet of plywood and a 1⁄2-inch sheet of polystyrene cut to the dimensions of the tank. These layers will even out any imperfections in the supporting surface and distribute the load of the tank.
If you don’t buy a commercially built stand, I recommend that you place under the tank a 5⁄8-inch sheet of plywood and a 1⁄2-inch sheet of polystyrene cut to the dimensions of the tank. These layers will even out any imperfections in the supporting surface and distribute the load of the tank.
Saturday, April 30, 2011
The Right Fish Tank
The general rule is to buy the largest aquarium you can afford and can accommodate in your home. The reason for this is fairly straightforward: Fish require adequate space to swim and sufficient oxygen to live; both are dictated by the size of the tank. The oxygen content of water is related to the surface area of the tank and the temperature of the water. Warmer water has less oxygen than colder water. Since most freshwater tropical fish prefer water warmer than 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the amount of oxygen in the tank may be limited. The more surface area a tank has, the more room for gas exchange at the surface more opportunity for oxygen to enter the water and toxic gases to leave. Therefore, the larger the surface area of the tank, the more fish the tank can hold.
Several different methods have been used to determine fish capacity, and there are several general rules. In my opinion, it is better to err on the side of too few fish than too many fish. Most aquarium enthusiasts use fish length and tank volume to estimate the number of fish an aquarium can hold; larger fish consume more oxygen and, therefore, require more aquarium space. The general rule is 1 inch of fish per 4 gallons of water for the first six months. You can gradually increase fish density to 1 inch per 2 gallons after this initial period. For example, a 40-gallon aquarium should contain no more than 10 inches of fish for the first six months. These may comprise ten 1-inch Neon Tetras or five 2-inch Oscars. After six months, additional fish may be added gradually to increase the total number of inches to 20.
Keep in mind, however, that fish grow, and your 2-inch Oscar may be 3 inches after those six months. Also, realize that this general rule does not compensate for the shape of the fish. The width of a fish is called its girth. The girth of an Eel is much smaller than that of an Oscar, and the 3-inch Eel is likely to require less space than the 3-inch Oscar, so the general capacity rule does not apply. If you plan to keep heavier fish (fish with a greater girth), be more conservative in your tank capacity calculations.
Because surface area is so important to the capacity and health of your aquarium, long tanks are much better than tall tanks. Even though both tanks may hold the same volume of water, the upright (tall) tank has much lower carrying capacity of fish because of its smaller surface area.
Once you have decided on the appropriate size of your aquarium, choosing the tank itself is very straightforward. Home aquariums are made of rectangular glass plates sealed with a silicone rubber cement, or of molded acrylic; both have their ups and downs. Glass aquariums are the most common and practical aquariums to buy, and I recommend them for the beginner. They are built for the sole purpose of housing living animals and are, therefore, nontoxic. Glass does not scratch as easily or yellow as acrylic does.
Aquariums with plastic or metal frames are sometimes available, but I have found that this design is not as aesthetically pleasing and that the frames are unnecessary. When choosing your tank, be sure there are no scratches on the glass and that there are no gaps in the silicone that can cause leaks.
Several different methods have been used to determine fish capacity, and there are several general rules. In my opinion, it is better to err on the side of too few fish than too many fish. Most aquarium enthusiasts use fish length and tank volume to estimate the number of fish an aquarium can hold; larger fish consume more oxygen and, therefore, require more aquarium space. The general rule is 1 inch of fish per 4 gallons of water for the first six months. You can gradually increase fish density to 1 inch per 2 gallons after this initial period. For example, a 40-gallon aquarium should contain no more than 10 inches of fish for the first six months. These may comprise ten 1-inch Neon Tetras or five 2-inch Oscars. After six months, additional fish may be added gradually to increase the total number of inches to 20.
Keep in mind, however, that fish grow, and your 2-inch Oscar may be 3 inches after those six months. Also, realize that this general rule does not compensate for the shape of the fish. The width of a fish is called its girth. The girth of an Eel is much smaller than that of an Oscar, and the 3-inch Eel is likely to require less space than the 3-inch Oscar, so the general capacity rule does not apply. If you plan to keep heavier fish (fish with a greater girth), be more conservative in your tank capacity calculations.
Because surface area is so important to the capacity and health of your aquarium, long tanks are much better than tall tanks. Even though both tanks may hold the same volume of water, the upright (tall) tank has much lower carrying capacity of fish because of its smaller surface area.
Once you have decided on the appropriate size of your aquarium, choosing the tank itself is very straightforward. Home aquariums are made of rectangular glass plates sealed with a silicone rubber cement, or of molded acrylic; both have their ups and downs. Glass aquariums are the most common and practical aquariums to buy, and I recommend them for the beginner. They are built for the sole purpose of housing living animals and are, therefore, nontoxic. Glass does not scratch as easily or yellow as acrylic does.
Aquariums with plastic or metal frames are sometimes available, but I have found that this design is not as aesthetically pleasing and that the frames are unnecessary. When choosing your tank, be sure there are no scratches on the glass and that there are no gaps in the silicone that can cause leaks.
Friday, April 29, 2011
Fish Breathing
Among the most primary of the basic needs of fish is oxygen. Like land animals, fish require oxygen to live. However, fish must derive oxygen from water and special respiratory organs, called gills, enable them to do so. The gills of a fish are analogous to our lungs: They supply oxygen and remove carbon dioxide from the blood of the fish. Then, oxygen is transported by the blood to the tissues where it is used to produce energy.
Most fish have four gills on each side of the head, protected by a single gill flap, or operculum. When a fish breathes, water is taken into the mouth and passed over the gills and out the operculum. As water passes over the membranes and filaments of the gills, oxygen is removed and carbon dioxide is excreted. To accomplish this, the gills have a very high number of blood vessels that deliver the oxygen to the rest of the fish via the blood.
Most fish have four gills on each side of the head, protected by a single gill flap, or operculum. When a fish breathes, water is taken into the mouth and passed over the gills and out the operculum. As water passes over the membranes and filaments of the gills, oxygen is removed and carbon dioxide is excreted. To accomplish this, the gills have a very high number of blood vessels that deliver the oxygen to the rest of the fish via the blood.
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