Aquarium Air Pumps

There are two general air pump designs: the diaphragm type and the piston type. The former is much more common and generally provides enough maintenance–free use for the beginner’s aquarium. The piston pump, however, is more powerful and should be used in larger aquariums, particularly if an undergravel filter and multiple airstones need to be powered. The size and power output of air pumps vary. Consult your local dealer to match your aquarium with the proper air pump.

Aquarium Aeration

Fish need to have a lot of oxygen available for respiration. So, although most filters provide water circulation and aeration, it is a very good idea to have an external air pump moving air through one or more airstones in the tank. This is especially true for tanks that are at their fullest carrying capacity. The air pump increases circulation in the tank, promotes oxygen exchange at the surface, and increases the escape of carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and free ammonia from the tank. This increase in circulation also acts to mix all the aquarium levels so that a uniform temperature is maintained throughout the tank.

Aquarium Thermometer

To maintain the temperature at suitable levels, all aquarists need an accurate thermometer. There are basically two types of thermometers for the aquarium: the internal floating or fixed thermometer and the external stick-on thermometer. The internal ones tend to be more accurate, and the external ones tend to read a couple of degrees too low.

I recommend two thermometers to enable you to carefully monitor your aquarium temperature as well as to compare the accuracy of each unit. Don’t cut corners when it comes to maintaining water temperature. This piece of equipment is very important, yet it does not cost a lot.

Aquarium Heater

Based on their temperature preference, fish can be grouped into two general categories: temperate and tropical. Temperate fish include many species that inhabit cooler waters. However, the fish most commonly seen in freshwater aquariums belong to tropical species. The term “tropical” refers to natural habitats where the waters are warm throughout the year. It should come as no surprise, then, that it is necessary to maintain your aquarium within a specific temperature range. This is the job of the aquarium heater.

This essential piece of equipment maintains your tank at a constant temperature, regardless of the room temperature. With the exception of a few fish, such as the common Goldfish, the species you are likely to keep as a beginner will require the aquarium temperature to be maintained at 75 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 26 degrees Celsius). However, this is entirely dependent on the species, and you should consult your local aquarium dealer or one of the many fish encyclopedias for specific temperature requirements. Obviously, you should not mix species that have very different temperature requirements.

There are a few types of aquarium heaters available to the aquarist, but the most common is the submersible glass tubular heater with a built-in thermostat. This heater attaches to the side of the tank and has external controls. Once it is properly set, it automatically responds to changes in water temperature and turns itself on and off. If you choose one of these, I recommend that you double-check the accuracy of the dial with a thermometer.

In general, you should place your heater close to an area of high circulation so that heated water can be rapidly and evenly distributed throughout the tank. This is usually near the filter system or the airstones.

Heater size largely depends on the size of the aquarium. The general rule is 5 watts of power for every gallon of water. Thus, a 20-gallon tank requires a 100-watt heater. Many fishkeepers recommend that two heaters be used in aquariums over 50 gallons; this allows for more even distribution of heat in the aquarium and also maintains correct temperature if one heater fails. The total required wattage should be divided between the two heaters (so a 50-gallon tank would require two 125-watt heaters, for a total of 250 watts).

Aquarium Ph

When we talk about pH, we are really referring to levels of hydrogen ions in solution. Ions are simply atoms with an electrical charge. These hydrogen ions have a positive charge. We measure the number of hydrogen ions on a pH scale.

The pH scale tells us how many hydrogen ions are in your aquarium water and, therefore, how acidic it is. It ranges from 0 to 14. While you would anticipate that a higher number on the scale would mean more hydrogen ions and a more acidic solution, this is not the case. In reality, a lower number on the scale means more hydrogen ions. A pH of 1 is very acidic, pH of 7 is neutral, and a pH of 14 is very alkaline, which is the opposite of acidic. This scale is logarithmic, which means that each number is ten times stronger than the preceding number. For example, a pH of 2 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 3 and one hundred times more acidic than a pH of 4.

The pH of your aquarium water is influenced by a variety of factors, including the amount of carbon dioxide and fish waste in the water. In general, the beginner’s aquarium pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Commercial test kits that are very simple to use are available at most aquarium supply stores. The pH level in your tank should be monitored every week or two to detect any changes. An abrupt drop in pH may be indicative of an increase in carbon dioxide or fish wastes. An increase in aeration or a partial water change may alleviate the problem.

There are ways to chemically alter the pH in an aquarium. However, unless you are attempting to attain specific pH levels that are dictated by the special needs of certain species of fishes, I do not recommend that you use them.

The Hood

An essential item for any aquarium is a hood or cover. This important piece of equipment performs a variety of functions. First, it prevents unwanted items from entering the tank and injuring the fish. Second, it prevents overzealous fish from jumping out of the tank. Remember, a fish cannot breathe air, and nothing is worse than finding your pet on the floor next to the aquarium in the morning. The cover also prevents water from splashing the walls and floor, causing damage, and it slows the rate of water evaporation from the tank. Water condenses on the cover and re-enters the tank instead of evaporating; this reduces the necessity of adding more water. Fifth, the hood helps the aquarium retain heat. And finally, the hood keeps water from damaging the aquarium light and prevents a potentially dangerous electrical problem.

The hood is generally fitted to the dimensions of the tank and is adjustable to allow for aquarium accessories. It should be composed of thick (1⁄8-inch) glass or plastic so it can support the weight of other aquarium components if necessary. It should be segmented so the entire assembly need not be removed to feed the fish or work in the tank.

For the beginner, I strongly recommend the type of hood that also contains the aquarium light. These units are self-contained and are designed to keep water from the lighting unit, minimize danger, and cover the entire tank. If possible, the tank, stand, and hood should be purchased as a package from a single manufacturer. This prevents the problem of mismatched aquarium components, and may also be less expensive.

The Aquarium Stand

The best support for the heavy weight of the aquarium and all its components is a commercially manufactured aquarium stand. This type of support is built to hold a full aquarium. Homemade stands and other furniture may look sturdy, but can fail under the heavy load. Stand failure can be costly to the aquarist and the homeowner (and the fish), so don’t try to save money on your aquarium stand.

If you don’t buy a commercially built stand, I recommend that you place under the tank a 5⁄8-inch sheet of plywood and a 1⁄2-inch sheet of polystyrene cut to the dimensions of the tank. These layers will even out any imperfections in the supporting surface and distribute the load of the tank.