The undergravel filter is considered by many to be the most effective type of filter because it provides a high level of biological filtration. This filter consists of a plastic plate that sits under the gravel of the tank. Water is drawn through the gravel by pumping air to the bottom of the filter with an external air pump. Some undergravel filters are driven by powerheads mounted on the intake tubes. Both kinds provide excellent water circulation and aeration.
In essence, this filter uses the aquarium gravel itself as the filter media. Thus, very little mechanical filtration is involved and chemical filtration is completely lacking. The undergravel filter relies chiefly on the establishment of a healthy bacterial colony in the gravel. For this reason, certain kinds of gravel are required for this filter, and a longer setup time of many weeks is necessary to establish bacterial colonies. However, once a healthy filtration system is established, this filter can be used for months without intense maintenance and cleaning.
Although this system provides the most valuable kind of filtration, it may be the most complicated for the beginner. Excessive debris in the aquarium can clog the filter bed and must be routinely removed. Aquarists who want to maintain live plants will find that this filter will destroy root systems. In addition, fish may disturb the substrate and upset the filtration bed. The novice would be better off with an external power filter.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Aquarium External Canister Filter
The external canister filter is the next step up in power filters. This filter is much larger than the others and is designed to filter large tanks of 50 gallons or more. The canister filter is composed of a large jarlike canister, which generally sits next to the tank. It contains filter media and activated carbon, like the other filters, but has a much more powerful motor for filtering large amounts of water. Water is drawn up by an intake suction line and sent back to the aquarium through a return line. If the return line is properly positioned, water circulation can be provided by these filters. I only recommend this kind of filter for the aquarist with a larger tank.
Aquarium External Power Filter
The external power filter is the easiest and least complicated filter system for the beginner’s aquarium. These filters provide all three kinds of filtration and are specifically designed to turn over large amounts of water. The external power filter hangs on the side of the tank and is powered by its own motor. Water is drawn into the filter by a U-shaped siphon tube. it passes over layers of fibrous filter material and activated carbon and is returned to the tank via a gravity trickle system or a return pipe. Like the box filter, the power filter circulates the water, providing aeration.
While it works on the same premise as the box filter, the power filter is much more efficient at removing waste and debris from the tank. It does not need to be cleaned as frequently as the box filter. Many models have special filter cartridges that make cleaning these filters extremely easy. In addition, various types of cartridges can be purchased to chemically alter water quality and correct water chemistry problems.
While it works on the same premise as the box filter, the power filter is much more efficient at removing waste and debris from the tank. It does not need to be cleaned as frequently as the box filter. Many models have special filter cartridges that make cleaning these filters extremely easy. In addition, various types of cartridges can be purchased to chemically alter water quality and correct water chemistry problems.
Aquarium Internal Box Filter
As the name implies, the internal box filter sits inside the aquarium. An external air pump drives air through the box, drawing water from the aquarium through fibrous filter media and activated charcoal. Layers of filter media provide mechanical and chemical filtration, as well as adequate substrate for biological filtration. Since it is driven by air, this filter circulates and aerates the water.
In my opinion, the box filter does not provide adequate levels of filtration for the average aquarium. Aquarists who start with a tank of 20 gallons or more should not use this type of filter system. It is simply too small to handle the waste and debris that accumulate in the tank, and it has to be cleaned frequently.
In my opinion, the box filter does not provide adequate levels of filtration for the average aquarium. Aquarists who start with a tank of 20 gallons or more should not use this type of filter system. It is simply too small to handle the waste and debris that accumulate in the tank, and it has to be cleaned frequently.
Aquarium Air Hose
Your air pump and airstones require an air hose to link the two. This is plastic tubing that delivers air from your pump to the airstone. This should fit snugly at all joints so air does not escape from the system. Air leaks reduce the efficiency of the system (filter and airstone) and may ultimately burn out the pump. Make sure the tubing is manufactured for use in an aquarium; other grades may be toxic to fish.
If you intend to run multiple airstones or additional devices, such as filters, from a single pump, you need one or more air valves. These enable airflow to be directed to multiple devices from a single pump. Using several air valves enables you to turn devices on and off as you like.
If you intend to run multiple airstones or additional devices, such as filters, from a single pump, you need one or more air valves. These enable airflow to be directed to multiple devices from a single pump. Using several air valves enables you to turn devices on and off as you like.
Aquarium Airstones
An airstone is generally made of porous rock that allows air to pass through it, splitting the airstream into tiny bubbles. Too fine a mist will cause bubbles to adhere to various tank decorations and to fish. You want the bubbles to slowly travel to the surface and agitate the water. Commercially manufactured tank decorations that act as airstones can be purchased at almost any aquarium supply store.
Aquarium Air Pumps
There are two general air pump designs: the diaphragm type and the piston type. The former is much more common and generally provides enough maintenance–free use for the beginner’s aquarium. The piston pump, however, is more powerful and should be used in larger aquariums, particularly if an undergravel filter and multiple airstones need to be powered. The size and power output of air pumps vary. Consult your local dealer to match your aquarium with the proper air pump.
Aquarium Aeration
Fish need to have a lot of oxygen available for respiration. So, although most filters provide water circulation and aeration, it is a very good idea to have an external air pump moving air through one or more airstones in the tank. This is especially true for tanks that are at their fullest carrying capacity. The air pump increases circulation in the tank, promotes oxygen exchange at the surface, and increases the escape of carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and free ammonia from the tank. This increase in circulation also acts to mix all the aquarium levels so that a uniform temperature is maintained throughout the tank.
Aquarium Thermometer
To maintain the temperature at suitable levels, all aquarists need an accurate thermometer. There are basically two types of thermometers for the aquarium: the internal floating or fixed thermometer and the external stick-on thermometer. The internal ones tend to be more accurate, and the external ones tend to read a couple of degrees too low.
I recommend two thermometers to enable you to carefully monitor your aquarium temperature as well as to compare the accuracy of each unit. Don’t cut corners when it comes to maintaining water temperature. This piece of equipment is very important, yet it does not cost a lot.
I recommend two thermometers to enable you to carefully monitor your aquarium temperature as well as to compare the accuracy of each unit. Don’t cut corners when it comes to maintaining water temperature. This piece of equipment is very important, yet it does not cost a lot.
Aquarium Heater
Based on their temperature preference, fish can be grouped into two general categories: temperate and tropical. Temperate fish include many species that inhabit cooler waters. However, the fish most commonly seen in freshwater aquariums belong to tropical species. The term “tropical” refers to natural habitats where the waters are warm throughout the year. It should come as no surprise, then, that it is necessary to maintain your aquarium within a specific temperature range. This is the job of the aquarium heater.
This essential piece of equipment maintains your tank at a constant temperature, regardless of the room temperature. With the exception of a few fish, such as the common Goldfish, the species you are likely to keep as a beginner will require the aquarium temperature to be maintained at 75 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 26 degrees Celsius). However, this is entirely dependent on the species, and you should consult your local aquarium dealer or one of the many fish encyclopedias for specific temperature requirements. Obviously, you should not mix species that have very different temperature requirements.
There are a few types of aquarium heaters available to the aquarist, but the most common is the submersible glass tubular heater with a built-in thermostat. This heater attaches to the side of the tank and has external controls. Once it is properly set, it automatically responds to changes in water temperature and turns itself on and off. If you choose one of these, I recommend that you double-check the accuracy of the dial with a thermometer.
In general, you should place your heater close to an area of high circulation so that heated water can be rapidly and evenly distributed throughout the tank. This is usually near the filter system or the airstones.
Heater size largely depends on the size of the aquarium. The general rule is 5 watts of power for every gallon of water. Thus, a 20-gallon tank requires a 100-watt heater. Many fishkeepers recommend that two heaters be used in aquariums over 50 gallons; this allows for more even distribution of heat in the aquarium and also maintains correct temperature if one heater fails. The total required wattage should be divided between the two heaters (so a 50-gallon tank would require two 125-watt heaters, for a total of 250 watts).
This essential piece of equipment maintains your tank at a constant temperature, regardless of the room temperature. With the exception of a few fish, such as the common Goldfish, the species you are likely to keep as a beginner will require the aquarium temperature to be maintained at 75 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 26 degrees Celsius). However, this is entirely dependent on the species, and you should consult your local aquarium dealer or one of the many fish encyclopedias for specific temperature requirements. Obviously, you should not mix species that have very different temperature requirements.
There are a few types of aquarium heaters available to the aquarist, but the most common is the submersible glass tubular heater with a built-in thermostat. This heater attaches to the side of the tank and has external controls. Once it is properly set, it automatically responds to changes in water temperature and turns itself on and off. If you choose one of these, I recommend that you double-check the accuracy of the dial with a thermometer.
In general, you should place your heater close to an area of high circulation so that heated water can be rapidly and evenly distributed throughout the tank. This is usually near the filter system or the airstones.
Heater size largely depends on the size of the aquarium. The general rule is 5 watts of power for every gallon of water. Thus, a 20-gallon tank requires a 100-watt heater. Many fishkeepers recommend that two heaters be used in aquariums over 50 gallons; this allows for more even distribution of heat in the aquarium and also maintains correct temperature if one heater fails. The total required wattage should be divided between the two heaters (so a 50-gallon tank would require two 125-watt heaters, for a total of 250 watts).
Aquarium Ph
When we talk about pH, we are really referring to levels of hydrogen ions in solution. Ions are simply atoms with an electrical charge. These hydrogen ions have a positive charge. We measure the number of hydrogen ions on a pH scale.
The pH scale tells us how many hydrogen ions are in your aquarium water and, therefore, how acidic it is. It ranges from 0 to 14. While you would anticipate that a higher number on the scale would mean more hydrogen ions and a more acidic solution, this is not the case. In reality, a lower number on the scale means more hydrogen ions. A pH of 1 is very acidic, pH of 7 is neutral, and a pH of 14 is very alkaline, which is the opposite of acidic. This scale is logarithmic, which means that each number is ten times stronger than the preceding number. For example, a pH of 2 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 3 and one hundred times more acidic than a pH of 4.
The pH of your aquarium water is influenced by a variety of factors, including the amount of carbon dioxide and fish waste in the water. In general, the beginner’s aquarium pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Commercial test kits that are very simple to use are available at most aquarium supply stores. The pH level in your tank should be monitored every week or two to detect any changes. An abrupt drop in pH may be indicative of an increase in carbon dioxide or fish wastes. An increase in aeration or a partial water change may alleviate the problem.
There are ways to chemically alter the pH in an aquarium. However, unless you are attempting to attain specific pH levels that are dictated by the special needs of certain species of fishes, I do not recommend that you use them.
The pH scale tells us how many hydrogen ions are in your aquarium water and, therefore, how acidic it is. It ranges from 0 to 14. While you would anticipate that a higher number on the scale would mean more hydrogen ions and a more acidic solution, this is not the case. In reality, a lower number on the scale means more hydrogen ions. A pH of 1 is very acidic, pH of 7 is neutral, and a pH of 14 is very alkaline, which is the opposite of acidic. This scale is logarithmic, which means that each number is ten times stronger than the preceding number. For example, a pH of 2 is ten times more acidic than a pH of 3 and one hundred times more acidic than a pH of 4.
The pH of your aquarium water is influenced by a variety of factors, including the amount of carbon dioxide and fish waste in the water. In general, the beginner’s aquarium pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. Commercial test kits that are very simple to use are available at most aquarium supply stores. The pH level in your tank should be monitored every week or two to detect any changes. An abrupt drop in pH may be indicative of an increase in carbon dioxide or fish wastes. An increase in aeration or a partial water change may alleviate the problem.
There are ways to chemically alter the pH in an aquarium. However, unless you are attempting to attain specific pH levels that are dictated by the special needs of certain species of fishes, I do not recommend that you use them.
Monday, May 2, 2011
The Hood
An essential item for any aquarium is a hood or cover. This important piece of equipment performs a variety of functions. First, it prevents unwanted items from entering the tank and injuring the fish. Second, it prevents overzealous fish from jumping out of the tank. Remember, a fish cannot breathe air, and nothing is worse than finding your pet on the floor next to the aquarium in the morning. The cover also prevents water from splashing the walls and floor, causing damage, and it slows the rate of water evaporation from the tank. Water condenses on the cover and re-enters the tank instead of evaporating; this reduces the necessity of adding more water. Fifth, the hood helps the aquarium retain heat. And finally, the hood keeps water from damaging the aquarium light and prevents a potentially dangerous electrical problem.
The hood is generally fitted to the dimensions of the tank and is adjustable to allow for aquarium accessories. It should be composed of thick (1⁄8-inch) glass or plastic so it can support the weight of other aquarium components if necessary. It should be segmented so the entire assembly need not be removed to feed the fish or work in the tank.
For the beginner, I strongly recommend the type of hood that also contains the aquarium light. These units are self-contained and are designed to keep water from the lighting unit, minimize danger, and cover the entire tank. If possible, the tank, stand, and hood should be purchased as a package from a single manufacturer. This prevents the problem of mismatched aquarium components, and may also be less expensive.
The hood is generally fitted to the dimensions of the tank and is adjustable to allow for aquarium accessories. It should be composed of thick (1⁄8-inch) glass or plastic so it can support the weight of other aquarium components if necessary. It should be segmented so the entire assembly need not be removed to feed the fish or work in the tank.
For the beginner, I strongly recommend the type of hood that also contains the aquarium light. These units are self-contained and are designed to keep water from the lighting unit, minimize danger, and cover the entire tank. If possible, the tank, stand, and hood should be purchased as a package from a single manufacturer. This prevents the problem of mismatched aquarium components, and may also be less expensive.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
The Aquarium Stand
The best support for the heavy weight of the aquarium and all its components is a commercially manufactured aquarium stand. This type of support is built to hold a full aquarium. Homemade stands and other furniture may look sturdy, but can fail under the heavy load. Stand failure can be costly to the aquarist and the homeowner (and the fish), so don’t try to save money on your aquarium stand.
If you don’t buy a commercially built stand, I recommend that you place under the tank a 5⁄8-inch sheet of plywood and a 1⁄2-inch sheet of polystyrene cut to the dimensions of the tank. These layers will even out any imperfections in the supporting surface and distribute the load of the tank.
If you don’t buy a commercially built stand, I recommend that you place under the tank a 5⁄8-inch sheet of plywood and a 1⁄2-inch sheet of polystyrene cut to the dimensions of the tank. These layers will even out any imperfections in the supporting surface and distribute the load of the tank.
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